Captain’s log
Dateline: 15.02.2023

Installing Daewoo DWD-35MCRCR Washer/Dryer combo

Will finally be able to wash my clothes and sheets/towels aboard. Powered by my Victron 1200W 230VAC inverter. 100W for cold water wash, 1500W for hot. I guess, the best I can do, is simply avoid using the hot water mode (warm should fall somewhere in between 100 and 1500 Watts).

Four holes for mounting:

  • 30cm apart vertically,
  • 42cm apart horizontally on the bottom,
    • 44cm apart on the top (long story short, the top-left screw is 2cm to the left off, kinda messed up).

The overall width of the machine is 55cm, at 65cm tall.

Anchor screws are 3/8-16 (~9mm in diameter), 150mm long. I’ll be using basic 3/8 drill bit for this. Will mount using titanium screws later, just because I hate corrosion.

Here’s a very good YouTube video explaining the installation procedure.

It boils down to:

  1. Unscrew two little screws, remove the face cover of the machine
  2. Connect the tiny water intake hose
  3. Attach the discharge (drain) hose
  4. Drill holes in the wall
  5. Put anchors screws into the wall
  6. Mount the machine, tighten the nuts
  7. Put the face cover back on

Connecting to boat’s water supply

My plumbing is poly tube, connectors seem to be twist & lock. Daewoo has included a threaded male to female metal coupler with a valve that has the little teflon water input hose "leeching" from it. This means I have to identify the thread, measure the diameter of my poly tube, get one twist & lock male, one twist & lock female, and put everything together.

Poly tube

The outer diameter appears to be exactly 15mm. Could be 5/8" (15.875mm), but it really seems to be 15... the boat is Canadian, after all.

Metal coupler

It could be 3/4", but the thing is made in/for Korea, often used in Australia, hence it’s probably something else. The sealing gasket measures 18.5mm outer diameter, 3mm thick, 11.3mm inner hole diameter. This item that has similar measurements makes me think the fitting is 1/2" BSP.

The outer diameter of the male side is 20.56mm, the inner diameter of the female side is 18.86mm, and the inner diameter of the coupler itself is 13.3mm. The little metal coupler with a valve that goes into the big metal coupler has thread closest to M10. My suspicion is that the big coupler is 1/2" BSP, and the little one is 1/8" BSP.

Looks like John Guest Female Connector BSP - 15mm x 1/2 BSP will do for one side, John Guest Male Connector BLACK ACETAL - 15mm x 1/2 BSP will do for the other. Gonna order them now, finish the log entry once it’s all put together.

(A couple days later)

It’s all here, everything fits perfectly!

Daewoo DWD-35MCRCR water intake connector assy

Captain’s log
Dateline: 08.03.2023

E-Tech motors

Either I’ve gotten stronger or those motors were never as heavy as I imagined. Supposedly 120lbs per motor, but now I somewhat doubt that number.

I need to grind down four stainless steel brackets to make sure everything fits neatly into the bilges. Detached one bracket from the starboard motor, it was held by 8 hex-head stainless steel screws, each paired with a split lock washer.

M10 (1.5mm thread), 8mm hex socket head. 15mm thread length, 10mm head length, ~26mm total length. 15.80mm head diameter. The split lock washer is 17.45mm in diameter, 2.10mm thick, 10.50mm inner hole.

These two should do it as a proper long-lasting replacement:

I’ve also ordered:

The teflon tape and anti-seize are to protect both metals from galvanic corrosion — the motor's chassis is aluminum, the screws are titanium. I’ll be using those two in many other places throughout the vessel.

Captain’s log
Dateline: 14.03.2023

Titanium for Lewmar ocean mainsail track car

Originally stainless, four button head screws:

  • 2 × M8-1.25mm, about 23mm long, fully-threaded
  • 2 × M6-1.00mm, about 23mm long, fully-threaded

One of the M8’s is already a victim to galvanic corrosion — the head broke off when I tried to turn it. Yours truly will have to drill it out (very carefully).

And of course, I’m going with titanium, grade 5. The length is a bit weird, unless I’m really bad at measuring things. To be safe, I’ll go with 25mm length, not 20mm. If I have to cut them, I will — can always make them shorter, never longer.

Replacements:

  • M6-1 × 25mm Button Head Socket Screw
  • M8-1.25 × 25mm Button-Head Socket Screw

Shopping spree

While we’re at it, I’d like to also get new screws to replace brand-new stainless steel ones that just came with the official end cap kit for that track car.

Originally stainless, they are four flat head screws:

  • 2 × M6-1.00mm, fully-threaded 20mm shaft

What I don’t like is the fact that they don’t use any washers with that — neither locking, nor flat. The danger here is if two of those screws got loose on either side of the car, the Torlon balls would just fall out, and then my boom could easily get either stuck, or the whole car would simply fly off the track, releasing my boom free, letting it hit one of my backstays, essentially taking down the standing rigging, dismasting Curious Cat. That’s the worst case scenario.

The tricky part here seems to be that the original screws “stick out” — they’re what touches the rubber buffers at both ends of the track. That means I can add extra height to the bolts, they just have to be flat.

The replacement will be:

  • M6-1 Pitch × 40mm Socket Head Cap Screw, Grade 5 (already have them, will need to cut and shorten, but seem to be perfect for this)

A 1.85mm outer diameter washer barely fits in there, and nothing can be over 10mm in diameter, Decided not to go with washers for now, can’t go above 10mm anyway, and don’t want to drill M5 washers to fit M6 bolts, that’d be silly. A bit weird that Lewmar went with a flat head slotted drive screw here, it has sharp edges on both sides, could chafe the line. I’ll drill the heads later to pull a safety wire through all four bolts, this way I won’t lose my precious Torlon balls if they become loose.

Been told that titanium sparks are white, can’t wait to see them.