Captain’s log
Dateline: 15.11.2022

Paint

My custom-made pelican striker by GMT will be here next week. It’ll come faired but not primed or painted. Saves me $500 and like a week of wait time, but now I’ll have to prime and paint it myself. Will try with a brush first, switch to sprayer if it turns out to be way too boring.

I had to decide between:

  • Awlgrip
  • Alexseal
  • Interlux
  • Sherwin-Williams aerospace

I’ve read that Awlgrip is inferior to their Awlcraft 2000, and since Alexseal 501 has started gaining popularity among boaters, they’ve released something called Awlgrip HDT, which is supposedly stronger and better suited for patching. I kinda wanted to go with Alexseal to begin with, so gave them a call.

Alexseal

Super cool kids, returned my call and taught everything there one needs to know about paint.

First off, they’ve told me to ask GMT what kind of material they will be using to fair the part. Then, recommended to make sure to tell GMT to use soap and water (or water and Scotch-Brite) before fairing, to remove any amines left from epoxy’s curing — otherwise something called “fish eyes” could pop up on the painted surface later.

Told me to print out and keep these three documents as a reference while I work on my project:

  • TDS_Alexseal_Super_Build_302_2022_engl_01.pdf
  • TDS_Alexseal_Finish_Primer_442_2022_engl.pdf
  • TDS_Alexseal_Premium_Topcoat_501_2022_engl.pdf

What to buy

All in all, here’s what I’ll need to prime the part:

  • Super Build 302
    • P3002 (base)
    • C3052 (converter)
    • R3040 (reducer)
  • Finish Primer 442
    • P4420 (base)
    • C4427 (converter)
    • R5015 (reducer)

And to paint:

  • T9134 (“Snow White” top coat, but not 100% sure about the color yet)
  • C5012 (converter)
  • R5015 (reducer, optional because should already have some left from my priming adventures)
  • A5018 (roll additive, makes air bubbles disappear, won’t require tipping when added)

Pure White

The Alexseal guy has also mentioned something called “Pure White”. It’s the white that they use to make other whites, the whitest white — basically just paint base with titanium dioxide, no added shades of any other color. It’d have to be a custom order, likely at least two gallons, but I have to paint the whole boat inside and out anyway.

Conclusion

This won’t be easy, but I’ll learn a lot and become a much better boater as a result.

References

  • Alexseal-Application-Guide_Eng.pdf

Captain’s log
Dateline: 22.12.2022

3D design: Hatch trim and fly screen kit

Coming into the wonderful world of boating I had one idea: keep my favorite 3D printer aboard the vessel so that in case if something breaks, I could get it fixed without having to order a replacement that costs lots and lots of paper money. Patiently waiting until it arrives to some marina or boatyard to be picked up and finally installed is no big fun either.

Be it FDM or SLA 3D printer, the material is usually some kind of resin. Although not structurally strong (ABS and carbon fiber-infused materials are as strong as it gets when it comes to consumer-grade printers), it usually does a decent job for the interior, or if glassed over in non-structural spots. Some folks even 3D print rudders, but you do have to glass those over many times and just overbuild like crazy — the boat sits on them when bottoms out, after all.

My first design is a set of three pieces that make up locking mechanism for hatch trim and fly screen kit, fits Lewmar hatches. Probably looks very cool at night if printed using glow-in-the-dark filament. Printing them in anything but white should be a good choice — mine are all yellow and dirty after sitting on the boat for almost 25 years, and cleaning those little parts isn't too entertaining.

Last but not least, the original parts made by Lewmar sink. Yes, it's meant for marine use, and it sinks. If you print out these replacement parts even with 80% infill (I wouldn't go below 50% for something as small — could break), it should float.

Hope it saves time and money for whoever finds these designs useful.

References

Captain’s log
Dateline: 25.12.2022

Inverter and new electrical system

Currently I have no way to continiously power my Starlink RV directly from the boat’s electrical system. That’s mostly due to not having an inverter aboard, and partially because my battery bank is only 12V, Starlink needs 48.

Since I need to get an inverter for my boat anyway, Multi RS Solar seems like a good choice. At only 11 kgs of weight, it will act as: battery charger, inverter, solar charge controller. 3-in-1. I’ll be able to get rid of small 12V Victron MPPT charge controllers that I currently use, which will save space and reduce amount of wiring.

Once 5KW of 230VAC is here, it’ll power: Starlink, washer/dryer, things that can’t be charged from 12VDC, microwave, and many other cool devices. By wiring four lead-acid batteries in series, I’ll be able to provide enough juice for onboard climate control, water heater, and other fun gizmos.

I couldn’t care less about starting my diesel engine, all that will get gutted anyway the moment I replace hydraulics with 10KW IP67 electric motors. Powering those will require LiFePo4 batteries, at least $12K worth of. But the motors are 48VDC so the same battery bank should be able to power both my boat’t electronics and propulsion system. Having one battery bank to do it all is not ideal, but will do for the time being. I’ll likely get two banks later and might even get two Multi RS Solar to completely separate my hulls’ circuits.

Shore power

My current ProMariner shore-to-battery charger is 12V, will have to replace it with something new, but it’s not urgent as long as my solar array and wind turbines pull the weight. There’s Skylla-TG from Victron that could charge a 48V bank, but it’s like 10 kg of weight and requires 230VAC input, I might just get rid of shore input altogether — it only adds weight and creates additional fire and electrolysis hazard below water line.

12V

This change will require a 48-to-12 DC-DC converter to power my lights and other electronics. Victron’s Orion-Tr 48/12-30 looks great. 430W of continious output ought to be enough for anybody.

Solar

I’ll need at least two more 100W Sunpower flexible solar panels. As I add more and more panels, the setup will likely require additional charge controllers, but that’s a good problem to have.

How much it’s gonna cost

Syntax Price
Multi RS Solar $2,335.00
Orion-Tr 48/12-30 $222.70
12V jump box $172.46
2 x 100W SunPower solar panel $310.00
Deep cycle 12V marine battery $89.80
Total $(a lot).00

References

  • Datasheet-Multi-RS-Solar-EN-.pdf
  • Datasheet-Orion-Tr-DC-DC-converters-isolated-100-250-400W-EN.pdf