Captain’s log
Dateline: 23.08.2022

Finally using my solar panels

Haven’t mounted Victron BlueSolar MPPT controllers yet, but couldn’t use fresh water pump anymore so had to connect things together quick and dirty just to see how well everything works. And also really want to take a shower and have my fridge working again — drinking warm bottled water in Florida summer isn’t exactly refreshing.

The voltage level showed below 9V last night, wasn’t enough to even properly power my LED lighting, surprised they turned on at all.

4 AWG cables I bought for my PV setup turned out to be a bit too thick for those controllers’ openings, had to remove a couple of strands. Black (negative) cables seem to have way more smaller strands than red (positive). Only had to remove a couple from the red cable, while the black one had to lose like 15–20% of its thickness, weird.

Terminals are crimped on them. I assumed people who made those cables knew what they were doing. I was wrong. It’s not too hard to remove terminals from those cables if you pull real hard, and the spot where they stripped the cable has some of the copper strands damaged, so that’s 3.9 AWG right there. If one of those strands falls off and into my charge controller, then I’ll likely need to buy a new controller. Will DIY cables from this point forward, can’t trust anyone. And no crimping on my boat, only solder.

The voltage has gone up to 11 volts within about thirty minutes, that’s a good sign. I have half of my 0.68KW photovoltaic system hooked up right now, only one out of two MPPT controllers used. My multimeter shows something like 63V from those two panels, pretty good. I’m also only hooked up right now to one battery, and I really should charge across the battery bank. Lyall from Sun Powered Yacht said that, "You are better to charge across the battery bank like you say so eg pos bat 1 and neg bat 3. It’s no way near as efficient to put them both on battery 1 and it ’waterfalls’ down through the bank". I’ll get there, just first need to properly mount these babies and craft cables of correct gauge and with nice soldered terminals.

Captain’s log
Dateline: 25.08.2022

Relay from West Germany

Ken and Julie stopped by their resort today, Ken had a bit of time to help me sort out wiring for my diesel engine, really cool guy who loves machines. Using the panel at the helm to start the boat’s engine instead of reaching into the engine compartment is much more preferable. Safer, faster, less embarrassing.

The wiring is a mess, all covered in oil and whatever else. The most interesting part was a Volvo 841177 relay that has “W-Germany” written on it. That means it’s more than 32 years old, older than me. Tektron/TEK-composites likely bought a box of them in the 80s or the early 90s and ended up sticking them into their boats and planes that they produced in the late 90s and the early 00s. It obviously refuses to work today, produced no clicking sound when we wanted it to. When I tried wipind its contacts, the transparent rubbery insulation on the bottom just started crumbling like a freshly baked cookie.

841177 relay made in West Germany

Ordered a replacement from Bob & Annie’s boatyard, it should be here Monday.

The relay socket might need to get replaced as well, but first I need to get the relay to work, I rather not have to solder four old copper wires.

Captain’s log
Dateline: 26.08.2022

Fiber optic lights

Reached out to Lopolight regarding possibility of using fiber optics instead of copper. The main advantages should be weight reduction as well as ease of maintenance, especially of the masthead light. Less copper to carry lightning strikes down to my sailboat’s electronics, too.

They said they can’t help me with that project, that’s just not something they do. But was happy to learn that they’re all sailors and the name "Lo po" comes from “low power” — they specialize in lightweight and low-power lights for vessels. They did refer me to RSL Fiber Systems though, which seem to be specializing in proividing fiber optics-based lights for marine vessels, specifically US NAVY’s Zumwalt ships. Hooyah!

RSL have informed me that their illuminator (light source) costs $50K and weighs whopping 75 lbs — a bit of an overkill for any sailboat. But they’re working on a sub-$1000 model that’s about 6–9 months away, and if it’s small and light enough and doesn’t consume a whole lot of energy, could be what I’m looking for. Using the same light source for my spreader lights and underwater lights could make a significant difference in the amount of copper my boat will carry, as well as make thru-hulls for underwater lights much smaller.

This article states that,

Fiber cables are much thinner and lighter than copper wires. A fiber cable can weigh about four pounds per 1000 feet, compared to copper wires, which can weigh 39 pounds per 1000 ft. The lightweight fiber optics then require less space for functionality.

No idea if it’s accounting for two wires or just one, but pretty neat either way, 10 or 20 times lighter. I think it’s for two copper wires vs. one fiber cable, since it mentions “fiber cable” and “copper wires”. But ten times lighter, wow.

Fenders with titanium rings

I’m trying to have as little stainless steel on my boat as possible. Cleaning it is little to no fun, and even 316 tends to be generally weaker than grade 5 or even grade 2 titanium.

Called AERE Docking Solutions yesterday, they got back to me today confirming that rings on their fenders are stainless steel. It might be possible to either do a custom order for fenders with titanium rings, or buy the usual ones they sell, cut those rings off, and then replace with carabines of sorts from Allied Titanium. Getting something custom signed with "Curious Cat" might be better though, no way to steal those rings if they’re not detachable, and if the fenders are personalized, nobody will try to steal those as well (I think).