Captain’s log
Dateline: 11.08.2022
VHF
Sorted out coaxial mess in the engine room and ran the cable from the antenna that’s on top of my mast to my old Raytheon RAY210VHF radio unit. It’s working! And suddenly, like magic, I feel as if I have lots of friends with boats.
If lightning strikes, there’s now a higher chance it’ll probably fry not just my radio, but the rest of the electronics with AGM batteries on top of that. Let’s hope it doesn’t.
Electric current leak
There’s apparently an electric current leak somewhere on the boat — the load current on my switch panel shows around 250–450 (whatever the units are), used to be 001–015 at most under load, and this is both when everything is on and off.
Found more stray wires that should’ve caused big fire by now but somehow haven’t, so will be removing and insulating them today, but it’s probably that Ultima switch that I installed a couple days ago, at least that’s the main suspect. Could be my adventures with rewiring mast lights.
DEUTSCH DT connectors
Purchased some IP66-ish connectors off Amazon. The brand is JPReady, Made in China, but I just want to try them out before looking for something of higher quality. Würth seems to only have ones with too many pins, and largely out of stock. Folks at TE Connectivity have much wider selection, plus they stock them in black.
Steve from Salty Steve’s has told me about those connectors. I was looking for something marine-grade, or at least water-resistant to connect my bilge pumps, switches, and other gizmos that don’t have high loads. MasterCraft pumps come with those attached, so he’s not the only one who uses them for boats. Steve said he puts solder into them instead of crimping to ensure proper contact. I’ll do the same. Don’t have a torch, and not planning on having any open flames aboard Curious Cat, but soldering iron and lots of patience should do it. The thickest my wires for pumps get is 14 AWG, but I’ll use 12 AWG pins just to be safe, and to make them harder to bend. 10 AWG should probably be my goal, but for now these will do just to learn how to properly work with them.
The hardest part will be developing a system of wiring 2- and 3-wire connections, so that it makes sense and is consistent across all of my electric connections, e.g. to quickly swap my high bilge water alarm’s Ultima switch with my pump’s Ultima switch if it suddenly gives up the ghost.
Wheel brake
Researched Edson wheel systems a bit. I have two helms, and the most puzzling thing about them so far was holes on fiberglass pedestals to the left of the port helm and to the right of the starboard one. Really scratched my head hard on that one, thought at first those were mounting holes for horn push buttons that were never installed, but it seems like the mystery is now finally solved.
Enter Edson Pedestal Wheel Brake! Says "pre-2003", and my boat is like fiver years older than that, so that must be it. Newer models of their helms seem to have a lever of sorts instead of a sinkable overpriced pin that's easy to lose. Not sure if I should upgrade or buy those wheel brakes since I’m a single-handed sailor, gotta think about it before I set the sail.
The worst part is now I have to drill a new hole for my horn buttons, and I have absolutely no idea where to put them to make it comfy and intuitive.
Mounting hydraulic motor
Got my 9/16"-18 316 stainless steel bolts and locking nuts from FMW Fasteners.
Putting the motor back on wasn't easy, had to buy some 316 stainless steel washers from nearby parts store to make the whole thing a bit more shiny and corrosion-resistant.
The disc coupling is by Frontline Industries, Inc. It doesn’t say much besides that it’s "BIG BOY" and its HUB-SIZE is "A". Pretty cryptic, but I love the name. There’s another maker of flexible couplings, called Lovejoy — great names all over!
Both motors work now. Not a fan of hydraulics and can’t wait to replace all that desel-hydraulic mess with electric motors. But first need to get out of here and go where I can be lifted out of the water.